050 – Chania and Surrounds, Crete – Taking The Minotaur By The Horns

We’ve continued to take advantage of the Lemonborghini (Ref. Blog #049), to criss-cross the countryside leaving a slew of trampled landmarks and natural wonders in our wake.  Argyroupoli is famous for its mountains springs, which are funneled through aqueducts to a cluster of 8 tavernas (in a town of 400ppl). Unfortunately, being the off-season, the tavernas were closed, but after jimmying the lock (i.e. tied shoelace) on the gate, we were able to slip in for a couple quick photos,

 And a visit with the duckies.

After that, we proceeded up the hill to check out the historic town.

We were promptly wrangled by a Greek-speaking elderly (?dementing) gentleman, who ushered us into his café to show us a wrinkly old town map and attempted to describe a walking tour of the town using hand gestures and various grunting noises.  After ten minutes and getting nowhere, we bailed out amidst his subsequent efforts to sell us a crinkled water bottle full of olive oil.  We still managed to track down a few of the local sites.

 Including this 3^rd century B.C. mosaic floor.

 A brief stop at the fresh water shores of Lake Kournas,

And it was time to wrap up another day.

As an aside, I need to make mention of the local driving habits. It has truly been a pleasure to drive in a country where everyone perpetually drives half on the shoulder of the road, just in case someone coming up from behind wants to pass.

This particularly comes in handy when attempting to overtake three cars at once on a blind mountain turn over a double line. 

 Hey, don’t worry about oncoming vehicles…

…They’re all on the shoulder, too!

We finally got our act together to make the drive out to Knossos (k’no-sos), the site of the famous ~3500-4000 year-old Minoan “Palace of Knossos”.

Once an elaborate construct housing over 100,000 people, it’s maze-like design is thought to have spawned the myth of the Minotaur.
 In Greek mythology, King Minos dwelled in a palace at Knossos. The Minotaur (bastard son of Minos’ wife Pasiphaë and the “Cretan Bull” from the sea, y’know standard myth stuff) was kept in a labyrinth and fed Athenians, until being slain by Theseus. 

While not quite as colossal as the original structure, the remains are still quite extensive and impressive.

Some structures and frescoes were partially reconstructed in the 1930’s, but many features, like this alabaster seat in the “Throne Room”, are original.

 We were innocently making our way around the grounds, when we got the eerie feeling we were being watched.

 

Before we knew what was going on, Mummy walked right into an ambush in the “Piano Nobile”! 

 She was in the clutches of the Minotaur!

Ciel sprang into action. 

A fierce battle ensued, but she eventually vanquished her foe on the floor of the “Theatral Area”, much to the delight of her of adoring fans.

(Si’down, Theseus. Ciel’s got this one.)

With the beast defeated, Mummy was reunited with the family.

Close call.

Drunk on the spoils of her victory, Ciel decided the trip home would be a good time to toss her cookies all over the backseat of the car.  Conveniently, this occurred moments after Taz woke from his nap and spit up on his car seat and seconds before entering the most torrential downpour of all time.  Navigating the slippery mountain roads with the wipers flailing, Britt’s knee in my face, Taz providing sound effects, a Mack truck on our back bumper, our windows sealed shut, and the stench of sour milk and partially digested salami permeating the air, was pretty much par for the course.

Inopportune Emesis Tally:2

The following day, rain and fatigue kept us close to home. The big event was the lunchtime Feta Tasting that Brittster organized.

Traditional feta, a brined and aged curd cheese, is made from sheep milk, or from a mixture of sheep and (up to 30%) goats’ milk.  We sampled six varieties (basically, we went to the cheese counter and asked for one of everything). 

 We can’t read Greek so we’re not really sure what the difference was, but we did take comprehensive tasting notes for future reference.

 Taz spent some time working on his vocabulary. Listen to him enunciate.

Translations include: “I’m hungry!” or “I’m still hungry!” or “I’m not hungry!”

We rallied the troops and rounded out the day with dinner at the highly acclaimed local Turkish restaurant, Tamam.

 Distracted by our efforts to keep Ciel’s dinner theatre to a dull roar, and Taz from demonstrating his new mealtime lexicon, we neglected to get a photo until we were well into the meal.

Cochlioi Bourbouristi (Snails in Olive Oil and Rosemary), Spicy Avocado Dip (aka Guacamole), Baked Giant Beans with Mustard Seed, Horta (Poached Wild Greens) with Lemon…and Banana-Apple-Orange-Biscuit Purée (Stage 2).

Ciel was a big fan of the snails. Lucky for us, on that night the trip home was a 30-second stroll instead of a winding mountain drive.  I’m not sure our olfactory bulbs could have tolerated another onslaught.

See you in a few days.